Rubondo Island Camp

Rubondo Island sits in the far southwest of Lake Victoria, a swathe of subtropical rainforest, papyrus swamp and empty white beaches with no villages and only a handful of wardens, researchers and camp staff. The camp has eight cottages built by local craftsmen from local materials, set on the forest edge above the sand, each with an en suite bathroom, hot water and a private veranda facing the lake. There is a pool, a hammock or two, and hippo that come up to graze the grass around camp after dark.

Chimpanzees were released here in the 1960s after being rescued from European zoos and circuses, and their descendants now live wild in the forest. Tracking them on foot with the resident researchers is slow, humbling work. Beyond the chimps there are forest elephant, sitatunga, bushbuck and over 300 bird species, plus boat trips along the shoreline and catch and release fishing for Nile perch in the deeper water.