Tsara Komba Lodge

Tsara Komba sits on the south coast of Nosy Komba, a former volcano cloaked in rainforest in Madagascar's Nosy Be archipelago. The island has no roads, so the only ways to get around are on foot, by pirogue or by boat. Eight thatched villas climb the hillside between the forest and a white-sand beach, reached by granite paths lined with bougainvillea and frangipani. The main lodge, the Divine House, holds the restaurant and four terraces looking out over the bay. Turtles feed in the shallows off the beach most mornings, and dolphins and migrating humpback whales pass offshore in season. A reef close to the lodge is good for snorkelling, with day trips out to Nosy Tanikely marine reserve for more of the same. For diving, the lodge works with a dive centre on Nosy Be, with sites further out offering a chance of manta rays, reef sharks and, occasionally, whale sharks. In the forest behind the lodge, guided walks track down Nosy Komba's black lemurs and chameleons, and point out wild vanilla and medicinal plants along the trail; longer treks can cross to Lokobe National Park on Nosy Be itself. A small nature reserve, botanical garden and orchard sit just behind the villas. In-room spa treatments use Madagascan essential oils: ylang ylang and lemongrass to relax, eucalyptus and niaouli to revive. The restaurant runs on the day's catch and the kitchen garden, with Malagasy dishes built around fresh seafood. Guests can also visit nearby villages by dugout canoe, or simply watch the day go by from the terrace.